Day 13: Gillis Lake, BC -> Hope, BC

Date: May 28, 2023
Start: Gillis Lake Recreation Site
End: Hope, BC (Coquilhalla Campground)
Distance: 94km

I awoke early and immediately started packing my things.  I wanted to get an earlier start (for me) because the plan was - after trying to go by it and around it - to finally take The Coquilhalla Highway (known as "The Coq" which is pronounced the same as "coke").  Some of the other campers had gone out on the lake early and caught some fish, but I couldn't stay to see it cooked.  I had road to grind.

I said goodbye to my temporary community of campers and headed out.  I hit the dirt/gravel road ready to bike downhill.  Remember: I'd pushed uphill for the better part of an hour and a half to get to the lake!  It was all downhill from here.  As I went down I noticed something odd about my front tire.  It was rubbing against the fender when I braked.  I stopped - because today was going to involve a LOT of downhill - and checked it over.

The tire was loose.  It could wobble if I picked the bike off the ground.  This would not do.  I finally got a chance to pull out the tools I had brought with me.  The front bolt that holds the tire to the frame has a lever specifically made to tighten it...but the front rack for my panniers comes too close to the bolt to fit the lever on.  So I used my leatherman tool (bought for the trip, thank you for the recommendation Emily!) and tightened it as best I could...but still not feeling it was tight enough.  Back down the hill I went!

At the bottom I rejoined paved road.  As I'd been planning I got off my bike, dropped to my knees, and kissed the pavement.  I'd had enough of gravel/dirt/rock/washouts and wanted to express my gratitude for smooth, paved surfaces!

Close by was the ramp onto the Coquilhalla Highway.  I'd read from people who said it was a hard no.  I'd read about people that found it scary.  I'd told myself I wouldn't do it...but here I was!  The speed limit on the highway is 120km/h.  So of course people are going 130+.  But this sign on the on-ramp helped calm me a bit.  At least they were thinking about people like me!

The cars were certainly fast, but the shoulder was wide and in good shape.  The Coq is three lanes in a lot of places, so for the most part vehicles had plenty of space to move over to get past me and they did.  If not, there was still a lot of shoulder for me to put between myself and the vehicles.

I knew that there was a climb to the summit of Coquilhalla Pass, but the day started out with a fairly tough 4km of climbing.  I had pushed my bike uphill for two days now, but on the highway I wasn't about to walk.  Also my good friend "headwinds" were joining me again.  That first climb proved to be the worst of the day, but I thought the actual climb to the summit in 30 kilometers was going to be worse.

At this point there isn't much to say.  I biked along without incident.  The climbs were gradual and easy.  The sky has wispy clouds that kept the Sun a bit more mild than it would have been directly an the headwinds kept me cool.

There were signs reminding drivers of bikes along the highway.  There were construction zones that blocked off the right most lane and so I frequently had my own lane to myself as none of the construction vehicles seemed to be moving.  It was actually one of the best stretches of road I've been on the entire trip!

I was passed by a few people who had met me at the campsight.  The couple who had given me their ramen honked as they passed.  At least one other who I think might have been Jamie, Mike, and Rudy!

I stopped at the Britton Rest Area just before the 11km climb to the summit.  There was a display telling the history of the Kettle Valley Rail (which doesn't exist anymore) AND the Trans Canada Trail...which is a bike path that uses the Kettle Valley Rail Trail....WHICH DOES NOT EXIST HERE ANYMORE!

There was a food truck and took my chance to fuel for the climb.  I opted for a turkey sandwich, samosa, and one of those pre-bottled Starbucks Frapuccinos (they are not a sponsor of this trip).  Sugar and caffeine would get me to the top!

It worked.

The 11km climb was easy.  I don't know if it's because it was so gradual, or because I'd spent days pushing through up hills, or just the caffeine.  But it wasn't a problem.

I took a picture at the summit of the sign.  A construction worker stopped to make sure I was ok and asked if I needed water.  They've all been wonderful to me and I have a new appreciation for all the road construction crews out there.

I stopped at the rest area before the decent and discovered the food truck there made burgers and regretted my decision to stop earlier.  I'd been craving a burger but was now full.  I talked to some of the workers from the Trans-Mountain pipeline who were on a day off and having a burger.  I chatted with three young guys who were about to climb this mountain:

I double checked my front wheel, tightened it up, and headed down!

I flew.  My top speed was 58.7km/h.  It was wonderful.  I stopped at one point for a car that had a flat and made sure the driver was ok (she was).  The headwinds meant that I still had to peddle in the parts that weren't as steep, but it was always easier to go downhill!  I passed many scenes that helped me understand the scale of the Trans-Mountain Pipeline construction:

Also, a milestone!  While going downhill I passed from 999km to 1000km traveled during the trip!  I let out a happy little scream (which I conveniently caught on camera for your enjoyment).

I eventually got off the highway and took a back road into Hope.  I started passing homes, residential streets, and the trappings of modern life.  I could feel myself getting back to civilization.  I stayed at the Coquilhalla Campground in Hope which had showers and laundry.  I did both.  I setup camp, called my family, and chatted with some friends.  I then jumped onto my bike and made for a local brewery: Mountainview Brewing Company.

It closed at 9pm, but I saw on the sign that the kitchen closed at 8pm.  I ran in and asked if it was too late to order.  It was 7:59pm.  I was that guy.  But the staff immediately ran to the kitchen and made sure I could get an order in.  They also recommended a burrito.  I told them that I needed calories because of the trip, and they chose 4 beers for me to try out and asked the kitchen to stuff the burrito.

They made an already good day even better.  I ate a MASSIVE burrito that was stuffed with extra good stuff including brisket that had been cooked overnight.  The beers were also VERY solid!  A ginger sake sour that was a collaboration that really stood out to me.  A blood orange imperial wheat ale that was beautifully blended in terms of flavours.  A dark cherry black forest stout that managed to taste just like black forest cake and a great dark stout blended together that didn't taste gimmicky.  Pulling off flavours like that in a beer is difficult while still keeping the beer taste.  They are brewing well above what I would have expected for a town as small as Hope, and easily are one of my favourite breweries at this point.

I don't "endorse" stuff formally, but their staff made sure I got what I needed and took great care of me.  And what they served me was second to none.  If you're in Hope, I think it's worth your time to support a great business that's out there doing great work!  Mountainview Brewing Co.

I biked back to my tent and immediately fell asleep.  After 3 days of trying to figure out how, I'd finally made it out of The Interior of BC and into Hope.