Day 16: Sidney, BC -> Victoria, BC

Date: May 31, 2023
Start: Sidney, BC (Smonecten Camground)
End: Victoria, BC (Staying with a friend)
Distance: 35km

I got up early and packed everything immediately.  I was going into Sidney, BC to find some breakfast and I was starving.  My earliest start ever, I got out at 7:30am!

I went into Sidney looking for any baked goods and quickly found what I was looking for!  The first stop was The Fickle Fig for a sour cherry danish.  I would have taken a picture, but it didn't last enough for me to get a snap.  Highly recommend.

Next was The Sidney Bakery.  An authentic old school bakery with all kinds of classic pastries and baked goods.  This picture didn't come out well, but the window was stuffed with the days offerings.  Donuts, turnovers, rolls, danishes, twists, buns...I made a list of 10 things I wanted and managed to whittle it down to 4.  I chatted with the folks in there about the trip and took my treats to Beacon Park where I sat on a bench overlooking the bay and enjoying lots of tasty calories.  Highly recommend this place if you find yourself in Sidney!

The plan for the day was to go to Victoria and meet up with my friend Warren.  We'd been at the University of Calgary together and he'd agreed to put me up for a few nights.  He's an awesome person and I was looking forward to seeing him, but the nature of a trip like this means that I sometimes catch people in the middle of the week and - unlike me - most people have responsibilities.  I wouldn't see Warren till he was done work, so I had lots of time to meander on the 30-ish kilometers to Victoria.

I went to a cafe, started pounding out and posting blog posts, and had a coffee.  I noticed someone outside taking an interest in my bike and snapping pictures and I went and talked to her.  She'd done some bike touring and was curious about my setup.  She was grabbing donuts from the bakery for the office, and we chatted for a while.  She offered to help me fix my broken bag that held my camping gear, which was awesome.  I already had a plan however and thanked her for the offer and we parted ways.  Thank you for the offer of help Sarah!  I really appreciate the kindness, generosity, and willingness to help a complete stranger!  Interactions like these help restore my faith in humanity!

Sidney was the home of a friend from my undergraduate.  When I moved from my small town to Ottawa, she was one of the first people that I thought was "cool".  She seemed so independent, experienced, hip, and was at ease in the city.  She turned me onto The Dandy Warhols and The Brian Jonestown Massacre (two faourite bands).  Having been exposed to so little music growing up, the first time she played them for me I was almost confused about how such good music could exist and I have powerful memories of her, that music, and those formative experiences.  I associate the music of those bands to West Coast culture because of her.  Being in Sidney - her hometown - brought back a lot of memories of our time together.  I haven't talked to her for - going on - almost 20 years.  I thought about her a lot while I was in Sidney and listened to the first track she played me and let the nostalgia wash over me.  I wondered where she might be now...

At about 11am I decided to hit the road.  But the road today was a trail!  The Lochside Trail which connects Victoria to the ferry terminal at Tsawwassen.  Another brilliant conversion of rail bed to bike trail (rail to trail) which meant no serious climbs and no loud cars.

The trail was REALLY busy!  I was constantly being passed by people easily twice my age.  It felt incredible to see so many people biking after being alone on so many highways and back roads.  I passed through countryside and couldn't help but take picture after picture...

The trail has plenty of rest stops with water fountains, benches, and bathrooms.  Victoria has - hands down - the best bike infrastructure I've seen in Canada.  The way finding was great, and there are LOTS of bike paths and lanes.  It's clear that the drivers are also more attentive and used to bikes being around and it shows in the number of people biking here.  It's the closest thing I've seen to The Netherlands in Canada.  I'm really impressed.

I stopped at a rest stop and was immediately quizzed by a group of people about the trip.  They all had lots of advice.  One of them stood out though, and he seemed to know about every place I was going to be passing through.  I knew he was sharp when I mentioned I was from Southeastern Quebec and he said "Where exactly in Les Cantons de L'Est are you from?"  He knew the name of the area without me offering it up.

I took the opportunity to ask the for a bike shop recommendation.  I needed my front tire checked as it kept coming lose.  They all gave the same place and vouched for the owner and mechanics as some of the best in the city.  We chatted for about a half hour and all departed.

Not 1km down the trail the man who knew The Eastern Townships (my home area) had stopped and was waiting for me.  He offered to bring me to the shop and make sure I got to where I needed to go.  I accepted his offer, and we biked to the shop.  We walked in and he grabbed the head mechanic and owner - Gerry - to come take a look.  In about 5 minutes Gerry had it tightened and sent me on my way.  I was so happy to have one of my biggest to-dos scratched off the list and thankful for everyone's help.

Highly recommend Gerry and the crew at Straight Up Cycles!

Back outside I chatted some more with my new friend who had escorted me to the shop.  His name is Bob Townsend.  I'd mentioned I had lived in Calgary and he asked my opinion of the Alberta election two nights before.  Not wanting to step in it, I offered up a "I'm disappointed with the outcome" at which point Bob laughed at my measured response.  I hadn't noticed, but his t-shirt should have told me all about his politics.  Bob and I had a lot in common it turns out!

Bob was once the mayor of Banff, Alberta (the youngest mayor in Alberta's history at that point).  He'd traveled the world and was as sharp as he was funny.  In Victoria (Saanich specifically) he'd worked to push for better bicycle infrastructure starting in the 80s.  His work led to the creation of the Lochside Trail and Galloping Goose Trail (two rail to trail projects and major cycling thoroughfares for Victoria), as well as all of the incredible infrastructure throughout the city.  I had bumped into and become friends with one of the leaders of better biking in the best place in Canada.  I wanted to hear more so we went for lunch at an Italian bakery nearby.  We spent the better part of almost 4 hours together.  He bought lunch, and I bought the gelato.  He offered me a place to stay if I needed and transport if I wanted.

I won't share all I learned, but his experience with pushing for better transport options at the municipal and provincial level was like a treasure trove of knowledge for a politics and policy nut like myself.  I just want to thank Bob for his help and sharing his wisdom, experience, time, and friendship.  I hope I get to talk to him again sometime.  Thank you for everything Bob!  Another incredible friend I've made.

We parted ways and I kept going into town.

As luck would have it, I was treated to a local tradition: waiting for the bridge to open for boat traffic.  The lineup of bikes was incredible.  So. Many. Bikes!

I crossed into downtown and met my friend Warren (more on him later!).  He had to get back to work so stayed at his place writing blog posts and relaxing.  I went out and found some dinner and we had a beer when he got back.

I fell asleep in his downtown apartment with the cool ocean air blowing in, and the sound of gulls in the distance.  A short day that of meeting new friends and exploring an incredible Canadian city.