Day 21: Vancouver, BC -> Langley, BC
Jeremy gets an incredible day and takes the first steps East
Date: Monday, June 5, 2023
Start: North Vancouver,BC (staying with a friend)
End: Langley, BC (staying with a friend)
The last morning in Vancouver. I'd been there for less than two days but done so much that it felt like much longer. I wrote another blog post and again had coffee with Don. He also asked me if oatmeal and yogurt would be ok for breakfast and I laughed at my good fortune to find someone who likes it as much as I do. We sat in the sun sipping coffee and eating breakfast as a new track that was unfamiliar to me played in the background. Don chose it, and it's a new instant favourite. It was one of those perfect moments when everything seems to hit the right note:
A little planning, a little packing, a shower, and some discussion of the route I was going to take and it was time to leave again. Another happy reunion and another bittersweet departure. Don made sure I had everything I needed and turned me onto a local bakery/coffee shop and it was time to go. One last picture for the memories:
I met Don during our shared time in Computer Science at the University of Calgary. We began in separate orbits of two friend groups that had come together. The degree would give us a chance to work together on class projects, and eventually our shared interest in climbing meant we'd spent hours hanging out and climbing together. From the outset I recognized someone with a strong work ethic, high standards, and a sharp intelligence to make it all happen. Outside of school work I got to know the initially quiet character and found a mischievous sense of humour - there's a smile in those eyes - and deep caring for his friends and those around him. That caring and sense of responsibility for others and society was something that made me sure to keep in touch with Don when he moved to Vancouver. Things are going well for him in Vancouver and I couldn't be happier, because he deserves every good thing in this world.
When I decided to do the trip he was one of the first I contacted to ask to stay with, and without missing a beat or knowing how long or when...he said yes! He then reorganized his weekend when my timing kept getting pushed back.
It's again, another person I'm lucky to have in my life. He toured me around for a wonderful weekend and I enjoyed every minute of his company and getting to share more time with him. Thank you for the incredible weekend Don, and introducing me to so many wonderful friends and places!
I headed out to Lonsdale Quay in search of pastries and quickly found them. Don had directed me to a bakery that did not disappoint. I sat out on the quay staring at downtown Vancouver across the water and enjoying the cool air of a bright morning in Vancouver.
A few people asked where I was going and wished me luck. Eventually it was time to start moving, and I jumped on The Spirit Trail for The Lions Gate Bridge. It's an iconic Vancouver monument, and an important piece of Canadian history and I wanted to ride across it.
I encountered a monument to The Great Trail and snapped some pictures.
On the way to the bridge I chatted with a couple who recognized me as a fellow tour-er. They directed me to the ramp up to the bridge and I crossed to the sound of The New Pornographers (a Vancouver band!) provided the chorus for the ride. This is the sound I associate with this city, and as they belted out chorus after chorus with the city in the background and the opening to the sea under me...it was another perfect moment!
I opted to go across the downtown waterfront and passed cruise ships and skyscrapers. My goal was Commercial Drive, a street with lots of business and character. Don had recommended seeing it. Vancouver's bike infrastructure isn't perfect, but it's VERY good for a major city in Canada. I took designated lanes throughout downtown and never felt disoriented or lost. I reached Commercial Drive with ease.
South on Commercial I admired the many shops, businesses, and people frequenting them. Part of this neighbourhood was Little Italy and I had to resist stopping for more pastries and snacks. It was a great ride though, and I enjoyed seeing one of those lively neighbourhoods that make a city great.
From there I joined the BC Pathway. It's a meandering pathway that follows the SkyTrain, at times running directly under it. It was a perfect mix of concrete grandeur and human scale green space. This pathway cut through neighbourhoods, industrial areas, commerical intersections, parks, over highways. It was a tour of the Greater Vancouver Metro Area.
Eventually I reached New Westminster and luckily a few neurons fired just right to make a connection I'd forgot about. My only knowledge of New Westminster is that I had a pen pal from here in grade 4 and I THOUGHT there might have been an important historic photograph that was taken here.
CANADIAN HISTORICAL ASIDES WITH JEREMY!
On October 1, 1940 the soldiers of The British Columbia Regiment were marching out of New Westminster to load onto a ship and head to some unknown destination (turned out to be Nanaimo). While lining up on the street just off the port, a child broke away from his mother and father towards his father - a soldier - in line. The photographer (Claude P. Detloff) caught the moment and one of the most reprinted and enduring photos of the human impacts of WWII on the home front in Canada:
You can read all about it on Wikipedia because there's more interesting details and you're not exactly here for this!
The point is that the intersection it was taken at still exists and there's a monument commemorating it. As someone who studied history, I wanted to stand in that place and look around and imagine it. It's just something I like to do. I probably would have biked past it by about 30 meters if I hadn't remembered, so I was VERY happy it came to mind. Some photos from the stop:
From here I navigated out of New Westminster and over the Pattullo Bridge, which is currently 85 years old and it showed! Crossing at such a wide point over the Fraser River really let it sink in just had large it is. I continued on wonderful bike infrastructure into Surrey and eventually found the Fraser Highway again. It started with separated lanes and eventually went back to painted lanes...but I was impressed that such a busy road allowed for bikes to travel on it with that much ease.
After more time on the highway I found myself back in Langley. I shopped around for some flowers as a token thank you to my host for the night - Nancy - as this was the second time in a week she was having me over.
After arriving we chatted about my adventures over the last week and had a wonderful dinner. Fresh asparagus from Abbotsford, carrots, marinated chicken, and a quinoa salad full of veggies and feta. I stared at my plate again for a second before starting and too a moment to be grateful for good food and good company. We enjoyed the rest of the evening discussing the trip and the world and the past and the future.
This was officially the first day of solid cycling East. Victoria, Vancouver, and the Lower Mainland really deliver for beauty, weather, culture, and Pacific Coast vibes. A deep thank you to everyone who hosted and shared this incredible piece of Canada with me. I shall not forget it, and I shall return.