Day 53: Rennie, MB -> Kenora, ON

Date: Friday, July 7, 2023
Start: Rennie, MB (Bedrock Family Campground)
End: Kenora, ON (Anicinabe Campground)
Distance: 98km

I woke up multiple times during the night as the rain fell harder at times and woke me.  But in the morning the sun was out and the sky was clear.  The tent was soaked though!

I packed, and set the tent out on a nearby volleyball net to dry.  I ate breakfast and packed up to start the ride.  I was ready to go at 9am, but I stopped to chat with Tammy again before leaving.  I rolled out at about 9:30am.

It wasn't going to be a long day, only about 100km.  I'd considered pushing for almost 200km today, but I'd wanted an early start if I was going to do that and the rain made sure that I couldn't get out early AND dry.  I opted to start later, dry out, and take the easier day.  I promised I wouldn't push myself too hard like I did across the Prairies...and I mean to stick to it!

I rode out through Whiteshell Provincial Park.  The roads were in rough shape, and there was no shoulder, but there was also no traffic.  The morning was cool and the sun was shinning.  There was a strong wing, but it was a crosswind!  It didn't slow me too much.  I listened to my audiobook (Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari...I recommend it!) and just rode along.

The scenery was VERY different from what I'd been through the day before.  Gone were the fields, the open expanses, and the straight flat roads.  It was replaced with rocks, trees, and curving roads that went up and down.  I was 100% out of The Prairies.  I was 100% in The Canadian Shield now!

After about 35km I came to the little town of Whiteshell, which is mostly cottages and the businesses that service them.  I stopped at a little cafe and had a coffee and cinnamon bun.  I chatted with some locals who wished me luck and encouraged me on my ride.

Riding out of town I rejoined Highway 1, The Trans-Canada.  It would now be the highway that I would take through Northern Ontario and I wouldn't get off of it until after Sault St. Marie.  It was going to be a looooong time on this highway!

Not too long after riding out, I passed the "Welcome to Manitoba" sign and snapped a picture and it passed into the distance behind me.

Then I hit construction.  There's twinning the highway in this area and there is a lot of construction happening!  But after reaching that I found the sign I was looking for!

I spent about 20 minutes here snapping pictures, shedding a few tears, and taking some time to enjoy the moment and understand what it meant for me and my journey!

Four provinces down, six to go.

I was giddy and needed a song to celebrate.  So many choices, which to choose?  I went with a little tune by a band that had been popular during my first undergrad degree but I hadn't paid any attention to.  When my friends went to see them live - and they did often - I would say no thanks.  Eventually I got into them, and in my Masters degree found a friend who also liked them.  We saw them in Calgary one night, and drove to Edmonton to see them again the next day.  They passed out pots and pans and wooden spoons during their shows for people to play along.  What a fool I had been to say no all those years.

The band is called Elliott Brood.  And they don't play shows so much as they host a party and provide the tunes.  One their greats is a tune called "Oh Alberta" which was a crazy hit when we saw them in Calgary and Edmonton...but I'm not sure why because the song is about going home to Ontario.  I'd lived in Ottawa for 5 years and have strong ties to that city and this province.  So it felt right that they should play me on home as I crossed into Ontario...

After about a dozen play throughs and some tears of joy, I put my audiobook back on and focused.  It was still 50km to Kenora.

The traffic was thick, but the shoulder was wide.  The sun beamed down and I beamed out too.  I was so happy to be starting the "third stage" of the trip: Northern Ontario.  It's one of the longest, most remote parts of the journey.  But I'm feeling food!

Now in The Canadian Shield, the road bobbed up and down and turned and curved.  It was a nice change of pace.

Eventually I reached Kenora, a city situated on a large lake: Lake of the Woods.  I exited towards the city and it was still 10km till downtown.  I stopped to snap a picture with the city sign.

When I crossed the bridge into town I could see the lake and all of the islands that dotted it.  This was proper lake country!  Similar to the kind I had grown up in.

When I reached downtown I stopped at the local library and tried to catch up on blog posts.  Including this day, I was behind by four days!  I wrote and posted and tried to catch up.  When the library closed at 5pm I headed to my campsite.

I setup, took a shower, and headed back into town.  It was Friday night and when I had driven through Kenora back in March - I helped my friend Emily move across the country - I had seen a brewery that I wanted to try.  I biked back into downtown and stopped at the grocery story for a few supplies.  I went to the brewery and had a burger, a pint, a poutine, and a flight.  I continued to pound out blog posts and - if you're reading this now - I caught up!

I rode back to the campground and immediately turned in.  Tomorrow I'd head towards Dryden, but tonight I would sleep.

I've started the Northern Ontario portion of the trip.  It will take almost two weeks.  I'm not sure how often I'll get good wifi or cell connections, so no guarantees for how frequently I'll be posting.  But I'll try to add small updates if it's been a while and I think people might be worrying!  Until I get to Southern Ontario, it's Pedal Pedal Jeremy!