Day 62: Wawa, ON -> Montreal River, ON

Date: Sunday, July 16, 2023
Start: Wawa, ON (Warm Showers host)
End: Montreal River, ON (Twilight Resort)
Distance: 97km

When I woke it was light, but not bright.  This usually meant it was 4 or 5am, but today I found out that we were in the clouds.  A heavy shroud of fog had settled on Wawa and everything seemed damp.  I made breakfast and got packed up, aiming to get out of town early so that I wasn't finishing late.  One of the neighbours from the night before walked over in their house coat with a cup of coffee for me.  He simply said, "Good luck on your journey" and returned home.  I was so thankful for his support and the warm cup of coffee to start the morning off.

I did some bike maintenance, packed up, and set off.  Again, I won't share any details about the warm showers host...but it was another great experience.

On my way out of town I again stopped at the Wawa statue.  There was a plaque I hadn't read the day before and I didn't want to miss it.

I also took a few minutes to listen to a song before I left town.  Stompin' Tom Connors has been mentioned once or twice in this blog, but he's something of a Canadian folk music hero and an artist I love for both his music and championing of Canadian stories and culture.  He insisted on writing and signing songs about our country, and was highly critical of Canadians who "sold out" by going to the United States.  His story is wildly interesting, and I encourage you to read about him on Wikipedia.  His biography was recommended to me by multiple people on this trip.  One of his songs immortalizes Wawa and the goose for which it's named.  I couldn't miss the chance to stand there at the statue, overlooking Highway 17, and listen to Stompin' Tom tell the story...

After listening to the song a few times and enjoying the view, I set off.  Time to start the day with our Lake Superior anthem.

I knew this was the start of another very hilly section of the ride.  I was going to Montreal River which was just under 100km, but the hills were going to be punishing and slow me down.  In addition, I was going through Lake Superior Provincial Park and people had warned me there was virtually nowhere to stop in the park other than the picnic sites and rest areas.  So I set off with the idea of a long stretch of hilly highway.

The hills didn't disappoint.  There were a couple of multiple kilometer climbs.  Nothing was too steep however, and as long as I kept it in "granny gear" I could make it up without much issue.  The day was plenty warm and humid though.  The clouds of Wawa had melted under the sun and made for a hot and humid day!

The ride out of Wawa brought the road up along Lake Superior, and so for every hill I climbed I was rewarded with a spectacular view of this, mightiest of lakes.  It might be time to talk a bit about Lake Superior.  I've mentioned it's the largest of the Great Lakes, but it's size is difficult to put into perspective.  The word "lake" is used for a specific and niche reason for the Great Lakes.  They are actually massive inland seas.  You could be mistaken for looking out and wondering if this was the ocean.  Water as far as you can see in multiple directions.  White capped waves on windy days.  The shores are mostly rugged and rocky.  So often there are islands not far off shore with a few trees that have somehow managed to hang on and grow into unique shapes as they are pushed around by the unyielding winds.

I've been through a few areas of the trip that made me stop and say aloud, "Wow..."  and this was one of them.  Southern British Columbia, the Prairies of Saskatchewan, and now the Lake Superior coast.  In all three cases I've heard people refer to these areas "God's country" and I have to agree.

Instead of trying to describe it, allow me to share a collection of photos that in no way manage to capture the majesty or grandeur of this incredible place.

After about 75km I found a stop in the park that had picnic tables.  It was called Katherine Cove and I pulled in to eat some crackers, cheese, and salami.  Immediately, I found two bikes loaded down with gear.  I took a peak and went to a nearby table to eat.  Katherine Cove is a sandy beach on Lake Superior where the waters are warmer and so people were swimming and enjoying the day.

At some point the two other cyclists walked up to their bikes and we made our introductions.  They are also going East and are from Calgary!  We spent some time trading notes on the trip thus far and eventually it was time for them to go.  We snapped a picture.

And that's how I met Kevin and Lisa!

I finished eating, and went down to the beach where I dipped my hand in the water.  Sure enough, it was far warmer than I expected for Lake Superior!

I sat on a bench looking out over the cove.  I popped my headphones in and turned once again to Gordon Lightfoot.  Not too far from this place - on the big lake they call Gitche Gumee - a ship named Edmund Fitzgerald sunk in a storm in November 1975 and was immortalized in song.  I listened to Gord tell me about it as I looked out on a peaceful warm day...

I set off again.  There were still a few more climbs before Montreal River and I wanted to get there in good time.  The day progressed, climbing and speeding down the other side...only to find another ascent waiting for me.

At some point, one of these climbs was the last one and I dropped down into Montreal River Harbour and found the Twilight Resort (the name was writing cheques that the campground had trouble cashing).  I registered and was given a spot close to a small ledge overlooking the bay where the Montreal River meets the lake.  Lake Superior has one of those kinds of beach/shore.  One is sandy, and the other is smooth rounded rock.  This was one of the rocky beaches.

After setting up my tent, Gavin found me.  We had come here the day before with his mother from Wawa to spend time with his grandmother.  Their family had a cottage on the edge of the campground and I was invited for a BBQ dinner.  I accepted and walked over with him and his mother.

For privacy reasons, not many pictures of this part!

There I was treated to a cottage on the lake overlooking the other side of the bay.  Gavin and his parents - Erika and Daren - were wonderful hosts and had burgers and hotdogs and green beans and all the fixins.  We ate and talked and I learned more about the area and this cottage that has been in their family for a long time.  This area was a second home for their family, and they clearly loved it.  And with good reason.  There is a lot to love about this section of Superior.

After dinner we retreated for a scotch, which surprised me!  But Gavin and his father are fans and they had a bottle of my absolute favourite: Laphroig Quarter Cask.  We enjoyed scotch and more conversation before I took my leave.  It was getting later and we all needed some sleep!

I went back to my campsite, showered, and took a few more pictures.  I secured my rain fly as it was supposed to rain overnight and part of the morning.  I tucked in and prepared for a long night of rain.

This ride had been rather featureless in terms of human infrastructure.  No cities, villages, stores, or roadside attractions.  But Lake Superior Provincial Park kept the road close to the lake, and so the views were second to none.  I had also got to meet Gavin's parents and enjoyed their hospitality.  All in all, exactly what I wanted out of the trip!