Tour de Florida: Post 3

Friday, February 9th

Note: I'm writing this over six months later and many details have faded, but it has been weighing on me that I never got it done...so here we go!

When last we'd left our heroes we'd arrived in Key Largo, the first of the Florida keys and spent the night in the first of a series of Florida state parks that would get us to Key West. We'd been visited in the night by a group of raccoons who had tried to burgle us, but I'd managed to catch them in the act and stash the goods. Still lost a lot of sleep over it though...

I had slept in a bit due to being woken up by the raccoons and staying up for a few hours thereafter. Now that we were in The Florida Keys and temperatures were warmer, we were in no rush to be anywhere. Our goal was Key West but breezes were all tropical now, and the mood was relaxed. Everywhere we went was beautiful. We ate breakfast, took our time packing, and checked out the small aquarium at the State Park.

We left the visitor center and started down Highway 1 - officially known as The Overseas Highway - and had gone maybe 10km when Skipper realized he had either lost his sunglasses or left them at the park. Going back would mean adding another 20km to the day and he wasn't sure where they might be, so he opted to drop into a local Dollar Tree and snag a pair. While he was in there, I spent time admiring the chickens and roosters that were becoming increasingly common since leaving Miami.

Whereas his previous riding shades had been something closer to safety glasses, his new ones fit the vibes of tropical life perfectly. A little later in the day I took this hero shot of him, probably my favourite picture of the entire trip!

We continued...south? No! Southwest! It was a bit jarring to consider that the further South we went in The Keys, the more we were turning West. Still, the tailwinds that had pushed us down the East Coast of Florida now shifted and continued pushing us through The Keys. It was paradise.

Another 20km and we stopped at a bird sanctuary which doubled as a bird hospital and rehabilitation center. Truth be told, Skipper is a birder and a big goal of his for the trip was to do some bird watching. He kept a small pair of binoculars stored on his bike where he could easily get to them and we spent a fair amount of time scoping out the flying fauna! This bird sanctuary had a fair number of birds undergoing rehab and it was great to see them up close!

After our break we continued another few kilometers and stopped at a grocery store were we grabbed some lunch and sat outside chatting with a few locals as we ate.

Past Tavernier we entered Islamadora where we happened upon a giant lobster statue. I insisted we stop to take a picture because only 6 months earlier we had stopped in Shediac, New Brunswick and taken a picture with another giant lobster. For some reason, this was important to me now!

Just for good measure, here is the one we'd seen in Shediac, New Brunswick:

We continued on down Highway 1. Passing through Islamadora meant more bridges for the next stretch, and they did not disappoint. The Keys are barely higher than sea level, and so the bridges between the keys tend to be the highest point around. From them we could see far and wide, and the waters were every shade of teal, emerald, and aquamarine.

The shoulder was quite good, and the riding was both breezy and easy.

We would fairly often take breaks on these bridges to admire the waters and the various birds in the area. It was around here that we had the opportunity to watch a frigatebird. These large, long winged seabirds are able to fly for WEEKS at a time on wind currents. We watched one that seemed to hover in the air as it stayed stationary in the ocean breeze hunting for fish in the waters below.

The bridges were also covered in birds.

From here we passed into Marathon, Florida where I had to take a picture of the sign to compliment my picture of the town sign for Marathon, Ontario from my Canada trip:

But before we got into Marathon proper, we stopped for the day at Curry Hammock State Park. The hammock in "Curry Hammock" is a regional term, and refers to stands of hardwood trees that grow in areas just above sea level in low lying areas like The Florida Keys!

As we pulled into the state park we found another cyclist who had biked from Key West. Our incredible tailwinds had been his incredible headwinds. He looked tired and frustrated. We said hello and he told us he had a rough day, at which point Skipper told him about the great day we had just enjoyed. This happened just moments after the man rolled in, and was still exasperated from hours of fighting the winds, I could tell he wasn't interested in hearing our side of the story and I interrupted as soon as I could to pull Skipper away and allow the poor guy to decompress.

We managed to score tenting spots in a grassy area not far from the water, and the evening breezes were always blowing in. We setup our tents and took some time to unwind and sit. As we walked to the showers we found our cyclist friend from earlier. He'd also had time to relax a bit and has in a better spot mentally for some company. Turns out he'd biked ALL over North America, and had a LOT of experience with cycle touring in some pretty wild (literally) places. Eventually we said goodnight, showered, ate dinner near the beach, and enjoyed the sunset.

Saturday, February 10th

We woke after a bit of windy night, but the temperatures had never cooled enough to chill us. We woke up just in time to watch the sunrise. It was cloudy, but still afforded quite a burst of color.

We rode into town and found the Marathon Bagel Company (one of the only breakfast options in town) was busy and seemed to be suffering the same kind of staff shortages all restaurants are dealing with these days. But we got our food and sat outside. There we struck up a conversation with several locals who gave us advice on things to see and do and were very kind. Among the locals was two girls - maybe about 4 and 6 - who told us about the upcoming Super Bowl between the 49ers and Chiefs. They insisted that not only would the Chiefs best the 49ers but that they were maybe the best football team in the history of the game. It was a complete coincidence I'm sure that their father also cheered the Chiefs!

I promised I'd cheer their team, we thanked them for their advice and company, and set off for Key West!

It was another day of tailwinds and easy riding. Highlights from the day include:

The Florida Keys were only accessible by ship until 1912 when a railroad was built all the way to the end at Key West. It was built by a millionaire named Henry Flagler and was nicknamed Flagler's Folly because it cost so much money, took 7 years to build, and was hit by three major hurricanes during construction...but it was eventually built and ran! That is, until a category 5 hurricane hit it in 1935 and destroyed huge sections of track (it still ranks as one of the most powerful hurricanes on record). At this point the remaining bridges and infrastructure was sold to the State of Florida which turned it into a highway. In the 1980s the road was improved with bigger bridges but the old bridges of Flagler's railway still stand in many places and are used by bikes and pedestrians. One of the original rail cars is in the picture above.

A big highlight was Seven Mile Bridge! As the name suggests, the bridge is almost exactly 7 miles (11.2km) over open water between two islands. It might be the tallest point in the Florida Keys and affords some magnificent views.

When we reached the other side we stopped at a small park/beach to take a breath. Here we chatted with a man who was vacationing in the area in his van. He was an Army veteran and the park was called Veterans park, and so he found it ironic that the police had been harassing him to leave the park because they didn't want him parking there and sleeping in his van overnight. I can't say he was wrong!

Not too long after we were crossing another bridge and eagle eyed Skipper spotted a pod of dolphins in the distance heading towards the bridge we were crossing.

I counted about 10-15 in total, and we waited on the bridge in the place they were crossing under us but we never saw them. They must have gone deeper when passing under the bridge, and we eventually saw them on the other side. But it was an incredible sight watching the all move in the water towards us!

Shortly thereafter we crossed onto Bahia Honda, a key known for being entirely protected as a park and for its wildlife and natural beauty. It was still cloudy and finally started raining a bit. We put on our jackets and pushed through the water. Eventually we stopped at a farmer's market on Big Pine Key and enjoyed pastries and a local kombucha while we took in the local artisan scene! I parked my bike behind a stand and the vendor walked over and struck up a conversation with me. Sure enough, he had biked across the United States only a few years before. Again, we traded stories and he offered some advice for our time in the area. Some of the tell me that you're amazed at how many people I talk to when I'm biking, but these chance encounters feel so common when you're adventuring.

The rain stopped, and despite the clouds we were once again treated to warm (though maybe a touch humid) weather. We continued towards Key West.

We knew when we were about to reach Key West because we could hear the fighter jets passing nearby as they landed and took off. Key West is home to an airbase on Boca Chica Key and so the fighter jets are a regular sight. We entered Key West too early to check into our hostel, so we biked along the waters edge enjoying some of the sights of Key West.

Eventually we reached a landmark, a marker for the Southernmost Point in the Continental United States! There was a HUGE line of people waiting to take a picture with it, so we stood across the street and snapped pictures with it (it looked to be a 30 minute wait otherwise). The marker sits RIGHT on the water's edge and waves were hitting the coast and splashing water high into the air at the marker. People had seconds to take their picture else they got soaked with the next explosion of water as the wave hit. It was really entertaining!

We continued putting around Key West, seeing some interesting sights!

Eventually we went into Fort Zachary Taylor State Park and found a beach where we sat and enjoyed the beach at a shaded picnic table. The clouds had cleared and the day was bright and warm. After all the riding, we'd finally reached Key West!

After a while we left for our hostel. Turns out, Skipper had found an INCREDIBLE place without knowing it. The name "hostel" is a bit misleading. Though we did have a room with bunk beds and a bathroom that we shared with two other people, the place had four pools and some beautiful sitting areas. It was so relaxing and comfortable. It was an oasis in Key West (pictures later).

Key West has a reputation for partying, drinking, and revelry. It tries to establish itself as a New Orleans kind of place, and Mardi Gras was only a week away. We had expected it to be busy and overwhelming...but it never was. It was lively, but no more so than any other city. This might seem disappointing to some, but it was exactly what we wanted. As you'll soon figure out, Key West was almost perfect.

Something I grew to love in Key West was watching sunrises and sunsets. Watching the Sun set into the Gulf of Mexico from Mallory Square is something everyone does in Key West, and we were clued into it by the people we had met at breakfast at the bagel place. I can't remember their names, but I can't thank them enough for telling us about it.

Hundreds and maybe thousands of people gather on the West coast of Key West and all watch the sun as it sets into the water. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to put it into words, but never managed to figure out a way to do it justice. In the same way that an eclipse causes people to stop and watch, the sunsets in Key West are an awe inspiring sight. And to have so many people all gather and observe makes it even more special. Sunsets happen every day, but in this place they're revered, cherished, and enjoyed. I think its because - like an eclipse - its a celestial event. It makes you feel very small, but also connected to everyone around you.

When it is over, and the last bright rays dip into the water...people applaud. That might seem corny, but it is entirely appropriate. There's something very human about watching a sunset and letting your mind try to understand what it is seeing.

We walked through town to a restaurant that - again - had been recommended by our friends from breakfast: El Siboney. If you got to Key West and want authentic Cuban food you should go here! It was FANTASTIC and the perfect meal.

With a full dinner and long day of cycling, we retired to our hostel where we went to sleep. Before bed, I set an alarm to wake myself in time to watch the sun rise. If it was half as good as when it set I was in for another treat!

Sunday, February 11th

I woke before my alarm and managed to get dressed and leave the room without waking anyone. I had done my research the night before and had my plan for the morning! I started towards a pier that let you walk about 300 meters offshore along the water. From here was the best spot to see the sunrise (and also a gathering spot for those that did so). I'd also researched the best coffee in town and found one such spot on the way, the appropriately named "The Best Coffee In Town". It was a small takeout window located in a laundromat. I got there and grabbed a medium coffee con leche and a cortadito (a Cuban coffee, which is very strong and served with lots of sugar). Caffeination secured, I quick marched to the pier!

I found plenty of other people already waiting. I walked out along the pier with the sky already getting bright, and watched as the waves crashed into the furthest end of the pier and send great surges of water skyward. It was a dramatic reminder of the energy churning all around us!

I sat along the wall of the pier and waited for the real show to start...

It was cloudy along the horizon, so while the sun should have already been up we were treated to the grandeur that the cloud lent the moment. All around us sea birds flew back and forth, sometimes diving in the water as they hunted for fish.

It was a quiet and tired crowd. But there were a few people who seemed like locals and who had their coffee with them. They chatted and laughed together. At some point, the first pure and direct rays of sun peaked through.

And at that moment, one of the people I guessed to be a local pulled out a conch horn and blew it as if to welcome the Sun and the new day. It was once again a solemn, beautiful moment that we all shared. And as the waves crashed into the pier and sent geysers of water skyward, without any words, we watched as the colours continued to splash across that canvas that we call morning.

The feeling was "magical" but it was anything but. It was as natural as it gets. And perhaps the realization that this was one of the purest certainties in life, that the sun would come again tomorrow, coupled with what felt like the singular miracle of the moment, was where the mind boggles. It is both only a few moments, and forever...day after day.

The sun rising, we all melted away to live the day whose birth we'd just witnessed.

It was only just after 7am and I meandered the streets taking in the sights and stumbled back across the Southernmost Point marker which had no lineup, and took a picture!

There was also a statue here that seemed oddly familiar to something I'd just seen:

This statue honours Albert Kee, a local bishop who ran a nearby business and would blow a conch shell to welcome tourists to Key West. The conch is an important creature in Key West. They are revered in local culture and were an important part of the local economy. Long ago, Bahamians who moved to Key West were referred to as "conchs" (pronounced "conks") but eventually it was adopted for anyone who lived in Key West. Today if you are born in Key West you are known as a Saltwater Conch, and if you move to Key West it takes seven or more years before you can call yourself a Freshwater Conch. This all leads to the discovery of one of my favourite things from Key West: The Conch Republic. Its difficult to do it justice and easier if you just read the Wikipedia article, which might rank as the best Wikipedia article ever.

The Conch Republic is a micronation, but it is also "a sovereign state of mind." MOST houses in Key West fly the Conch Republic flag. It is partially a joke, but the place genuinely considers itself different from anyone else in the U.S. and that is because it is different. I try not to collect "stuff" but came VERY close to buying a Conch Republic flag sticker, actual flag, and a bike jersey with the Conch Republic flag on it. I managed to restrain myself however. I will never forget the place, or the people, or the feeling, but the Conch Republic made a believer out of me.

My next goal was Glazed Donuts, a local donut shop with good reviews. It did not disappoint. The line was long and as I stood and waited a family got in line behind me. They were young parents with three kids in pajamas. As we waited, their children ran over to the window to look into the shop. As they watched, one of the bakers put on a show for them and started making them custom donuts. He was adding cream, layers, sprinkles, marshmallow, and even took a blowtorch and melted the marshmallow on top. The kids stared like he was Santa Clause building Christmas morning before their eyes. I'm not sure that anyone else was paying attention, but I loved it. The youngest of them was sucking his thumb as he watched. I usually don't post pictures of children, but I blurred the kids faces to add them here!

The line was still pretty long, so I told the parents to switch places with me. This would get them inside and ordering faster. I don't have children, but my sister does and I understand the energy it takes to go out with little ones. They deserved their treats! It was a beautiful day. I was happy to wait.

I took the donuts and coffee back to the hostel where I shared them with Skipper who a few people we met on the patio. It was a great morning!

Skipper and I set off for a day on the town to see the sights and landmarks of Key West. Our first stop was The Little White House, a house that was once part of the naval base in Key West where Harry Truman would vacation in Key West. We biked through beautiful neighborhoods before we found the museum.

The museum is largely the house, which is preserved, and artifacts inside of it telling the story of the times and the history of Truman visiting there.

After our tour we headed back to the hostel and Skipper decided he wanted to spend another day in Key West, so booked us at our wonderful hostel for another night! We had been planning on leaving the next day, but life was too nice in the tropics!

We took a a bike ride out to the pier where I had watched the sunrise so I could show Skipper the view.

Our next trip was to Hemingway House. Ernest Hemingway lived in Key West for a period of his life, and was a local fixture. He wrote several of his best known works here, and the modern house is now a museum. It is famously inhabited by a LOT of cats which all descend from cats that Hemingway had owned.

After this tour we returned to our hostel for some rest, and decided to go watch another incredible sunset. Once again, it did not disappoint!

We were a bit worried the ships were going to block our view, but they all moved off just in time and provided some wonderful framing!

Everyone applauded. And the crowds moved off to enjoy the night. And what a night was in store for us, because this was Super Bowl Sunday! That's about all I can tell you about it as I don't really follow sports, but I'm the kind to watch the big match when the time comes. Skipper and I found a kind of hipster bar with a food truck and sat down to watch the first half of the game. As instructed days before by the two young football fans we'd chatted with at breakfast, I cheered for the Chiefs.

We watched the second half of the game back at the hostel. My loyalty to the team I'd been told to cheer for was rewarded in full as the Chiefs took it in overtime!

I set an alarm for sunrise and we slept after another fulfilling day!

Monday, February 12th

(I didn't take many pictures this day)

I woke to my alarm and set out. I grabbed my coffee at the laundromat coffee shop (The Best Coffee In Town) and went to watch another glorious sunrise. I was getting addicted. As I set out I could hear the roosters crowing. Key West is INFESTED with wild chickens, and they roam the town unharassed. They're part of the landscape. As I walked to the pier to watch the sunrise, at least half a dozen roosters could be heard in the distance on various blocks.

With that, I set off for a morning run. The downside of waiting until after sunrise to run is that the temperature is immediately skyrocketing! I ended up doing 15km and was leaving puddles behind me for the last 5km. I had been running in Quebec before we left for the bike ride, and I was NOT used to these temperatures!

After the run I dropped into a local bakery I'd been eyeing and was rewarded with some excellent local treats! I was again taken in with a t-shirt I saw and almost bought. It had three things I love: bicycles, chickens, and bakeries.

Skipper and I went back there for lunch, and spent the day exploring the town some more and visiting a local museum: The Key West Museum of Art & History. It was an excellent collection of local history and art. A real nice way to spend the day.

In the evening we enjoyed another sunset. There were clouds on the horizon, but oddly not touching the horizon. It meant that the sun disappeared for a time and then showed up just before it hit the horizon. Once again, the cloud provided for some beautiful dramatic effects. These images almost look AI generated, but I promise you this is what it looked like!

Skipper and I had Chinese food for dinner, and then discovered a new favourite: frozen key lime pie on a stick. America man...they're lightyears ahead of the rest of the world for "<food> on a stick" technology! I went and did some laundry, took one last evening walk, and tucked in for the night.

Tuesday, February 13th

It was time to leave Key West and head back the way we'd come. I woke up to watch another sunrise, but it was not to be. It was completely overcast and raining and there was no sunrise to witness. I opted instead to check out another local coffee haunt and enjoy another strong, sweet, Cuban coffee.

Because it was raining in the morning we opted for a slower start. I took the time to write some postcards. When it was time to checkout we packed our bikes up and did another tour of the town. This included a stop at the zero mile marker, where the road in Key West finishes! Key West is a popular lands end spot for cyclists doing long rides, and we didn't want to miss the chance at a picture.

Our goal for the day was Bahia Honda which was only 60km out, so we took our time to bike around town and have lunch before we departed.

We grabbed some lunch at The Best Coffee In Town (my laundromat coffee shop) and ate by the water before departing.

We reluctantly said goodbye to Key West and headed out of town. I almost bought a bike jersey with The Conch Republic flag on it (it also had a huge State of Florida flag which I didn't want to sport) and regret not buying a Conch Republic flag. Though we weren't leaving the Florida Keys for another few days, this marked the half way point of the trip and we would have to return to reality eventually. I really loved Key West. Something about being in America but also in the tropics, its just a different world!

The day cleared up and the skies were blue on our ride out Key West...but a harsh reality was already setting in: headwinds. We had tailwinds all the way to Key West, and it was time to pay the piper.

Bahia Honda has a reputation for its rugged beauty, and we were lucky to be staying there! We arrived, setup camp, and I ran to watch another sunset. It was a quiet night and I slept with the fly off my tent so I could watch the stars.

Wednesday, Feburary 14th

At this point I'd been waking up for the sunrise so much that this was my natural time to wake. This day was no different. I walked to the beach and watched the sunrise at Bahia Honda.

Skipper and I spent the morning exploring Bahia Honda (as I mentioned earlier the entire key is a nature preserve). We packed up and had breakfast at the park concession stand.

Skipper and I walked around and explored the park, checking out the fish and watching the birds!

We ate lunch, and then it was time to leave. It was only a 30km ride for the day to get back to Curry Hammock State Park, so we left in the afternoon and very quickly found ourselves crossing Seven Mile Bridge again.

It wasn't long before we were back at Curry Hammock State Park and our wonderful campsite near the water. It had been a beautiful day and I was feeling it...because I had a terrible sunburn!

We showered, and enjoyed dinner near the beach at Curry Hammock. The tide was out and we explored the beach as we enjoyed another sunset!

We tucked in for another night.

Thursday, February 15th

Though it was only about 80km, the headwinds meant this was going to be a full day of riding. Knowing that it was going to be a more difficult ride, we ate breakfast and left early.

Unfortunately we were now covering ground that we'd already seen. There isn't much to say about this part of the ride that hasn't already been said or described. We were running ahead of schedule and so stopped in a park and sat in the shade. The day was HOT and we took our shoes off and enjoyed relaxing in the afternoon shade.

We stopped at a grocery store (it had just opened that day!) and picked up some provisions. We checked back into John Pennekamp State Park, setup our campsite, and checked out the aquarium at the visitor center again!

We found a spot on the beach for dinner and enjoyed the sunset. We were joined by a fellow adenturer who was traveling in a van around the country. We talked to him long after the sun went down and enjoyed the company!

Friday, February 16th

Another day, another sunrise!

Skipper wanted to rent a kayak and explore the area, but I opted to stay behind. I was feeling very tired and didn't think my arms/shoulders would stand up to a few hours of paddling. Skipper went exploring and I did some blogging.

After a few hours Skipper returned having seen some splendid birds and fishes. We packed, and readied to leave. This day would take us out of the Florida Keys and back onto the mainland of Florida. It had been an incredible week, but we were turning back North towards the cold!

This day was going to take us back to Miami and a reunion with two of my aunts who I had not seen in a VERY long time! I was very excited to see them once again! We set off and were once again on the causeways that took us back towards Miami.

It took a few hours of cycling into the wind, but we eventually made it across the highways and back to the edge of Miami! We ducked into a gas station to grab a drink and collect ourselves. The winds had been vicious, and we were aching for a break!

We hit the BRT route back in to Miami and rode the bike lane. We stopped once at Walmart and I made another pit stop at a wine store so I wouldn't show up empty handed.

We made one last stop before reaching my aunt's house. Earlier in the trip Skipper mentioned that he grew up in the same neighbourhood that my aunt lives in. He and his sister had tried to find the place, but they were both young when they moved away and couldn't remember the exact address. I speculated that it shouldn't be too difficult to find, and within about 20 minutes had found a digitized version of a phonebook from that period...and sure enough found his father's name, and their original address. We biked to the place and Skipper got to find out what had come of his childhood home (it has seen been rebuilt).

We biked into the neighbourhood of Coconut Grove and found my aunts place. I was treated to a reunion with my aunts Wendy and Kim. It had been a long time since last I'd seen them, and it was a happy reunion! We freshened up, and went out for dinner in the utterly magical Coconut Grove.

More adventures with Aunt Wendy and Aunt Kim in the next post!

This post is maybe the longest blog post I've ever written, but I wanted to get the entirety of the Florida Keys done in one post. Time to end it. More to come!